Alpamayo 5949m climbing expedition
The expedition will begin in Peru's cosmopolitan capital
Lima, with its lively street cafes and restaurants. From Lima we drive
by bus following the Pacific coast Highway northwards to Pativilca
and then inland up the exciting Rio Fortaleza road to a high pass (4500m)
near Conococho, before descent into the upper Rio Santa to the
Huaraz area. The various bars and night clubs provide a colorful introduction
to the life of the town. From Huaraz we drive to Cashapampa and trek
up the Santa Cruz Valley. We make a camp at the head of the valley below
the Punta Union pass (4750m).
As part of our acclimatization programma we make a day trip to the pass,
where we are rewarded with the
| stunning views of Taulliraju (5830m). Our training and
acclimatization programer continues with an ascent of Millisharaju (5510m),
a popular and pleasant climb. We then move up the Arhuaycocha valley to
the Alpamayo base camp where, time permitting, we spend a rest day preparing
for our ascent of Alpamayo, Usually the most difficult part of the route
is finding a way trough the icefall which leads to the Alpamayo Col. There
can be tricky crevasses and some serac danger on this section, but once
established at the col the route is objectively reasonably safe. The route
will consist of glacier travel to the base of the beautifully fluted southwest
face. Once across the tricky, often difficult bergshrund we follow the Ferrari
route directly to the narrow summit crest. The route here will consist of
belayed climbing up steep snow and ice (up to 45-55) degrees towards the
top). With no easy descent route available climbers will rappel the route
and trace our route back to high camp. This is an immensely rewarding technically,
challenging route and ranks high amongst the world's classic alpine routes.
Day 1:Day 1:Arrival to Lima. Hotel Accommodation
in the Antigua Miraflores Hotel on the cool Miraflores neighborhood.
Day 2: Bus to Huaraz (8 h). Hotel accommodation
in the Andino Hotel.
Day 3: Acclimatisation day in the colorful
city of Huaraz.
Day 4: Private bus to Cashapampa, the start
point to Alpamayo peak. Trekking to Corral de Llamas Camps (3h).
Day 5: Trekking to the Base Camp in the
Sta Cruz valley. (4-5 h)4200m.
Day 6: Trekking a Taulliraju Col. 5000m.
Back to BC.
Day 7: Ascent to Millauraju.5510m.Acclimatization
Day 8: Short Trekking to Alpamayo BC
Day 9: Rest day in the BC. Equipment preparation
for the climbing.
Day10: Porters to Morrena Camp. 4900m.
Back to BC.
Day11: Trekking to Morrena Camp. Night
in the Morrena Camp.
Day12: Trekking to Collado Camp. Night
in Collado Camp.
Day13: Early summit attempt. Alpamayo Peak
5947m. Descend to Collado Camp.
Day14: One Extra Day for the summit attempt.
Day15: Descend to Base Camp. Night in Base
Day16: Descend to Cashapampa. Night in
Cashapampa. Hotel accommodation.
Day17: Drive back to Huaraz. Night in the
Day18: Transfer to Lima. Night in the Hotel.
Day19: Flight at home.
|LEVEL: Intermediate - CLIENT:GUIDE RATIO 2:1
& tours to Peru: Information
about Peru | Climbing Esfinge trips |
Alpamayo climbing trip | Alpamayo and Huascaran
Trips & tours to Bolivia: Information
about Bolivia | Trekking trips
| Climbing trips
Trips & tours to Chile: Information about
Chile | Rock climbing
trip | Mountaineering trip
& Seminars | Link
General Information about our trips|
Infinito Sur round trip insurance
details| Booking conditions
| Equipment list
Trip notes - General travel information: about
Argentina | about Bolivia
| about Chile | about
Sur Expeditions? | Guide
& Staff | Photo gallery
How to register /booking information
| Contact us | Home
| Versión en Español