Esfinge
Alpamayo
Alpamayo & Huascaran

Alpamayo 5949m climbing expedition

The expedition will begin in Peru's cosmopolitan capital Lima, with its lively street cafes and restaurants. From Lima we drive by bus following the Pacific coast Highway northwards to Pativilca and then inland up the exciting Rio Fortaleza road to a high pass (4500m) near Conococho, before descent into the upper Rio Santa to the Huaraz area. The various bars and night clubs provide a colorful introduction to the life of the town. From Huaraz we drive to Cashapampa and trek up the Santa Cruz Valley. We make a camp at the head of the valley below the Punta Union pass (4750m).
As part of our acclimatization programma we make a day trip to the pass, where we are rewarded with the
Alpamayo High Camp
stunning views of Taulliraju (5830m). Our training and acclimatization programer continues with an ascent of Millisharaju (5510m), a popular and pleasant climb. We then move up the Arhuaycocha valley to the Alpamayo base camp where, time permitting, we spend a rest day preparing for our ascent of Alpamayo, Usually the most difficult part of the route is finding a way trough the icefall which leads to the Alpamayo Col. There can be tricky crevasses and some serac danger on this section, but once established at the col the route is objectively reasonably safe. The route will consist of glacier travel to the base of the beautifully fluted southwest face. Once across the tricky, often difficult bergshrund we follow the Ferrari route directly to the narrow summit crest. The route here will consist of belayed climbing up steep snow and ice (up to 45-55) degrees towards the top). With no easy descent route available climbers will rappel the route and trace our route back to high camp. This is an immensely rewarding technically, challenging route and ranks high amongst the world's classic alpine routes.


Day 1:Day 1:Arrival to Lima. Hotel Accommodation in the Antigua Miraflores Hotel on the cool Miraflores neighborhood.
Day 2: Bus to Huaraz (8 h). Hotel accommodation in the Andino Hotel.
Day 3: Acclimatisation day in the colorful city of Huaraz.
Day 4: Private bus to Cashapampa, the start point to Alpamayo peak. Trekking to Corral de Llamas Camps (3h).
Day 5: Trekking to the Base Camp in the Sta Cruz valley. (4-5 h)4200m.
Day 6: Trekking a Taulliraju Col. 5000m. Back to BC.
Day 7: Ascent to Millauraju.5510m.Acclimatization climbing.
Day 8: Short Trekking to Alpamayo BC
Day 9: Rest day in the BC. Equipment preparation for the climbing.
Day10: Porters to Morrena Camp. 4900m. Back to BC.
Day11: Trekking to Morrena Camp. Night in the Morrena Camp.
Day12: Trekking to Collado Camp. Night in Collado Camp.
Day13: Early summit attempt. Alpamayo Peak 5947m. Descend to Collado Camp.
Day14: One Extra Day for the summit attempt.
Day15: Descend to Base Camp. Night in Base Camp.
Day16: Descend to Cashapampa. Night in Cashapampa. Hotel accommodation.
Day17: Drive back to Huaraz. Night in the Andino Hotel.
Day18: Transfer to Lima. Night in the Hotel.
Day19: Flight at home.

LEVEL: Intermediate - CLIENT:GUIDE RATIO 2:1
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