""Cuadernos Patagonicos"
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The Paine
The Sarmientes range at 51 degrees latitude south elevates its last imposing and important massif before dying in the southern foothills of the Andes. This group is situated in Chilean Territory in the eastern extension of the continental Ice south. It consists of imposing mountains of rock and ice and includes a chain of towers known as the Paine. It is a group of lakes often united by a labyrinth of rivers, fields of vegetation and flowers, and ancient forests that covered the territory before the arrival of man who burned them to make room for pasteurs, and the white glacial tongues of the continental Ice. Above all this, they dominate the Paine and are one of the main attractions for mountaineers of the region. Its walls are the major focus for climbers in the area. The first news of the exploration of this area was written in 1879 by J.T. rogers who carried out extensive exploration of the territory of Last Hope. From there he could see the granite towers of the Paine. It is interesting that the official name Paine was used later. At first it was called the Untamed Mountains. According to De Agostini the first colony established in this region was that of don Orsimbo Santos, an enterprising and harddworking Chilean that arrived on July 8 1908. during the first exploration campaign he traveled with a guide thought the entire section of Last Hope by following the course of the Serrano river that meanders through the paririe to the fjord of Last hope. During their trip he could view the north side of Mount Balmaceda. The objective of the 1929 expedition was to explore the central sector of the massif. The last exploration of De Agostini was 1943 which was directed towards the northern sector along the Paine river to the edge of Lake Dickson. With this he concluded the exploration of virtually all of the Paine and the explorations of such grand scale to the magnificent summits.
Paine: The Exploration of the Mountaineers
The first news of exploration of this region also came from the reports of De Agostini. He records that in 1937 a German group of Dr. Gustavo Fester and Hans Teufel and Stefan Zuck of the Bavarian alpine club reached the western summit of the small Paine by traveling across the north, northeastern crest that was named Mount admiral Nieto. But the large Paine at 3050 meters was the highest in the region and the main objective for the expedition. In 1953-54 Argentinean climbers had already initiated their expedition. This account was interrupted with the loss of two men: Heriberto Schmoll and Torcek Pangerc. The Argentinean expedition financed by the Italian group Guido Monzino soon arrived at the foot of the large Paine.

This expedition had an ambitious objective, that of achieving the 3 towers of the large Paine. It was in 1963 that the major figures in mountaineering gave notice that the best climbers of the moment had the intention to conquer the central tower as well as other feats. One was the famous English pair of Christian Bonington and Donald Williams, the first black man to reach this. The other was the Italian expedition organizaed by the Monza section of the Italian Alpine Club. The group was headed by Giancarlo Frigen. Bonington and Williams made the summit at sunset on December 16, 1963.
The night of the 16th while bonington and Williams camped near the summit, Aiazzi and Aste found a landing to pass the night. The next day they encountered the British team that had initiated their descent. Nevertheless the climbers reached the summit on february 9th from the north side after encountering many problems on the south side.

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